- Published on
You may ask yourself, “why would I attend training with my foster dog, I am not going to have him for that long…hopefully?” Well, I have several answers to that question! The first, and probably the most obvious, answer is that training your foster dog will likely help your foster dog get adopted quicker. Basic obedience, such as sit, down, and stay will probably impress a potential adopter! Most fosters are able to train these basic obedience skills at home.
Training your foster dog can also increase their confidence. When a dog learns new things, and gets praised for the learning, their confidence increases. Tackling obstacles and overcoming fears can build confidence and promote further learning. A more confident dog will also be able to create a stronger bond with their humans.
However, there is other training you and your foster dog should work on such as socialization, greetings, and interactions; with both people and other dogs. This is a little more complicated and takes a little more training. Some fosters may not posses the skills to work on these training techniques. However, this training is possibly more important than basic obedience training.
Socialization is one of the most important forms of training. Even if you have other dogs in the house, it is important to socialize your dog. Socialization doesn’t just mean introducing your dog to other dogs, it also means exposing the dog to new environments and new stimuli. This exposure to new things, and positive reinforcement, will help lessen fear and promote and healthier dog.
Greetings can be difficult for several reasons; the dog could be overly excited, the dog could be fearful, or the dog could be aggressive, to name a few. New adopters may not understand the difference between these and assume the dog is aggressive. They may not have the training or the tools to help their new dog with greetings. Interactions with people and dogs can be stressful, especially for fosters and newly adopted dogs. Even if the dog is a happy dog, interactions can still be difficult.
You still may be wondering why you should attend training as a foster. Well, not only should you attend training with your foster dog, but I would also encourage fosters to attend training even if they don’t have a foster dog at the time! If fosters know what challenges they may face, and the tools needed to address those challenges, they can decide, before they foster, if they are up to the challenge. Although we may want to save all the dogs ourselves, sometimes we are not the right fit for the dog.
However, if the fosters know the tools needed, and feel they are up to the challenge, they can help the foster dog reach his full potential and be an amazing family dog!
Training your foster dog can also increase their confidence. When a dog learns new things, and gets praised for the learning, their confidence increases. Tackling obstacles and overcoming fears can build confidence and promote further learning. A more confident dog will also be able to create a stronger bond with their humans.
However, there is other training you and your foster dog should work on such as socialization, greetings, and interactions; with both people and other dogs. This is a little more complicated and takes a little more training. Some fosters may not posses the skills to work on these training techniques. However, this training is possibly more important than basic obedience training.
Socialization is one of the most important forms of training. Even if you have other dogs in the house, it is important to socialize your dog. Socialization doesn’t just mean introducing your dog to other dogs, it also means exposing the dog to new environments and new stimuli. This exposure to new things, and positive reinforcement, will help lessen fear and promote and healthier dog.
Greetings can be difficult for several reasons; the dog could be overly excited, the dog could be fearful, or the dog could be aggressive, to name a few. New adopters may not understand the difference between these and assume the dog is aggressive. They may not have the training or the tools to help their new dog with greetings. Interactions with people and dogs can be stressful, especially for fosters and newly adopted dogs. Even if the dog is a happy dog, interactions can still be difficult.
You still may be wondering why you should attend training as a foster. Well, not only should you attend training with your foster dog, but I would also encourage fosters to attend training even if they don’t have a foster dog at the time! If fosters know what challenges they may face, and the tools needed to address those challenges, they can decide, before they foster, if they are up to the challenge. Although we may want to save all the dogs ourselves, sometimes we are not the right fit for the dog.
However, if the fosters know the tools needed, and feel they are up to the challenge, they can help the foster dog reach his full potential and be an amazing family dog!
- Published on
Moving from one house to another can be difficult enough without the added
complication of owning pets. Between constant house hunting, meetings with real
estate agents, and making your own house presentable, it’s easy to neglect pets during
this tumultuous period. But you aren’t the only one that’s under stress; changing locales can be even more stressful for your dog since they don’t understand what’s happening. You may not know this, but dogs love routine and consistency, and obviously nothing is routine or consistent about moving. To keep your pets calm and under control throughout the whole process, try following these tips.
For Selling a House
When selling a house, it’s critical that your house is presentable. You will need to make any necessary repairs, mow the lawn, and clean every surface. It’s even advisable to
move the furniture around to open up the house and give it a feeling of being larger. In many instances, it’s also advisable to stage your home, which can mean putting away
clutter, photos, and anything that can be off-putting to a potential buyer. This also means getting the pooches out of the way. Potential buyers will not only be put off by the
presence of dogs, but the sheer existence of them in a home implies damage to some
people. Buyers can come through a home at just about any time, so it’s also important
to make sure to keep your dog entirely out of the home when you have an expected
showing. Also, depending on what breed of dog you have, there could be tumbleweeds of dog fur blowing throughout the house.
The downside of selling your home is that it adds a lot of stress and pressure for your
beloved dog. The best way to help her cope with the changes is to continue with a
regular routine, give lots of extra attention, and provide plenty of walks. Although it will be impossible to keep a routine and remain consistent, there are some ways to try and
keep the disruptions minimal.
Discuss with your realtor your concerns about your pets. Chose only certain days to
show your house, or request a 24-hour advanced notice for all showings. Although this will not eliminate the stress for you or your pups, it will give everyone time to make a
plan. You can then take them for a long walk or drive or out to get some ice cream! Most showings do not last longer than an hour, just enough tie to have some fun.
If possible, you can have one person take the pups out, about 15 minutes before the
showing, while another person stays behind to clean the windows and sweep up the fur tumbleweeds! You may want to keep the dog toys out as well as the dog beds, this
would be a good time to stow them.
An open house is a different story though, they usually last 2-3 hours. If possible, you
might want to plan to have your pups stay at doggie daycare for that day or someone
else’s house. Try to have them stay somewhere they know, so it doesn’t seem too
unusual.
While House Hunting
As stated above, you should let your real estate agent know if you have a dog, so they
understand you have different considerations and requirements for your new home.
Also, keep your dog in mind when you’re searching for a new house. After all, this will
be their new home, too. Two of the most important elements for your dog will be a yard and the location. Is the yard fenced? Do you need a fence? Can you, legally, install a
fence? If you are buying a house in a subdivision, they may have a Home Owner’s
Association (HOA). The HOA, or the town, may have restrictions on fences. It also helps to scout out the surrounding area when looking at a potential new house. Are there
walking paths nearby? Is there a dog park nearby? Are there other dogs in the
neighborhood? Don’t forget to look for local veterinarians and emergency veterinary
hospitals.
If you have older dogs, you may want to look for a one-story home, or one with
minimal stairs. It is also important to consider the type of flooring in the new house. Some dogs have a hard time walking on tile or hardwood floors.
For Moving In
There are a few effective ways to prepare a dog for the big move. Getting them to spend some time inside a crate each day, if they aren’t accustomed to it, can make them more cooperative moving day arrives. However, if you do not normally crate your dog, do not add this to the routine, it will likely just stress your pup out more. Another useful trick
is to choose a distinctive scent, then spread the scent all around your home. Once it’s
time to make the move, and before the dog arrives, spread that same scent all
throughout the new home. This will ease the dog into her new surroundings. You can
also make the dog more comfortable by simply immersing them in it. Bring the dog to
the new neighborhood to take walks and let them get used to the local smells and
sounds.
During the move, it might be a good idea to, again, bring your pups to doggie daycare
or a familiar friend during move out and move in day. This will at least limit the
disruptions. Although it will take a while to fully move in, one of the first things you
should do is put out their favorite toys or their dog beds. Walk them around the house
and show them where everything is, including their dog bowls.
If you were able to take your pup on walks around the area before you moved in, he
should already be familiar with some of the scents and sounds. Start up a routine again, whether it is the same routine or a new one. You want to bring routine and consistency back to them as soon as possible.
Dogs are very resilient and adaptable, but always be considerate of canine companions when a move is on the horizon. It’s an important aspect of being a considerate dog owner. Keep the dog’s needs in mind throughout the entire process, from the moment you
put your house on the market until the moment you move into the new one. By doing
so, the whole process will be much less stressful for everyone.
By
Cindy Aldridge and Michelle Turner
complication of owning pets. Between constant house hunting, meetings with real
estate agents, and making your own house presentable, it’s easy to neglect pets during
this tumultuous period. But you aren’t the only one that’s under stress; changing locales can be even more stressful for your dog since they don’t understand what’s happening. You may not know this, but dogs love routine and consistency, and obviously nothing is routine or consistent about moving. To keep your pets calm and under control throughout the whole process, try following these tips.
For Selling a House
When selling a house, it’s critical that your house is presentable. You will need to make any necessary repairs, mow the lawn, and clean every surface. It’s even advisable to
move the furniture around to open up the house and give it a feeling of being larger. In many instances, it’s also advisable to stage your home, which can mean putting away
clutter, photos, and anything that can be off-putting to a potential buyer. This also means getting the pooches out of the way. Potential buyers will not only be put off by the
presence of dogs, but the sheer existence of them in a home implies damage to some
people. Buyers can come through a home at just about any time, so it’s also important
to make sure to keep your dog entirely out of the home when you have an expected
showing. Also, depending on what breed of dog you have, there could be tumbleweeds of dog fur blowing throughout the house.
The downside of selling your home is that it adds a lot of stress and pressure for your
beloved dog. The best way to help her cope with the changes is to continue with a
regular routine, give lots of extra attention, and provide plenty of walks. Although it will be impossible to keep a routine and remain consistent, there are some ways to try and
keep the disruptions minimal.
Discuss with your realtor your concerns about your pets. Chose only certain days to
show your house, or request a 24-hour advanced notice for all showings. Although this will not eliminate the stress for you or your pups, it will give everyone time to make a
plan. You can then take them for a long walk or drive or out to get some ice cream! Most showings do not last longer than an hour, just enough tie to have some fun.
If possible, you can have one person take the pups out, about 15 minutes before the
showing, while another person stays behind to clean the windows and sweep up the fur tumbleweeds! You may want to keep the dog toys out as well as the dog beds, this
would be a good time to stow them.
An open house is a different story though, they usually last 2-3 hours. If possible, you
might want to plan to have your pups stay at doggie daycare for that day or someone
else’s house. Try to have them stay somewhere they know, so it doesn’t seem too
unusual.
While House Hunting
As stated above, you should let your real estate agent know if you have a dog, so they
understand you have different considerations and requirements for your new home.
Also, keep your dog in mind when you’re searching for a new house. After all, this will
be their new home, too. Two of the most important elements for your dog will be a yard and the location. Is the yard fenced? Do you need a fence? Can you, legally, install a
fence? If you are buying a house in a subdivision, they may have a Home Owner’s
Association (HOA). The HOA, or the town, may have restrictions on fences. It also helps to scout out the surrounding area when looking at a potential new house. Are there
walking paths nearby? Is there a dog park nearby? Are there other dogs in the
neighborhood? Don’t forget to look for local veterinarians and emergency veterinary
hospitals.
If you have older dogs, you may want to look for a one-story home, or one with
minimal stairs. It is also important to consider the type of flooring in the new house. Some dogs have a hard time walking on tile or hardwood floors.
For Moving In
There are a few effective ways to prepare a dog for the big move. Getting them to spend some time inside a crate each day, if they aren’t accustomed to it, can make them more cooperative moving day arrives. However, if you do not normally crate your dog, do not add this to the routine, it will likely just stress your pup out more. Another useful trick
is to choose a distinctive scent, then spread the scent all around your home. Once it’s
time to make the move, and before the dog arrives, spread that same scent all
throughout the new home. This will ease the dog into her new surroundings. You can
also make the dog more comfortable by simply immersing them in it. Bring the dog to
the new neighborhood to take walks and let them get used to the local smells and
sounds.
During the move, it might be a good idea to, again, bring your pups to doggie daycare
or a familiar friend during move out and move in day. This will at least limit the
disruptions. Although it will take a while to fully move in, one of the first things you
should do is put out their favorite toys or their dog beds. Walk them around the house
and show them where everything is, including their dog bowls.
If you were able to take your pup on walks around the area before you moved in, he
should already be familiar with some of the scents and sounds. Start up a routine again, whether it is the same routine or a new one. You want to bring routine and consistency back to them as soon as possible.
Dogs are very resilient and adaptable, but always be considerate of canine companions when a move is on the horizon. It’s an important aspect of being a considerate dog owner. Keep the dog’s needs in mind throughout the entire process, from the moment you
put your house on the market until the moment you move into the new one. By doing
so, the whole process will be much less stressful for everyone.
By
Cindy Aldridge and Michelle Turner
- Published on
Occasionally when I am searching the internet for something, I come across an article about the 10, 20, 30, 100, whatever number, smartest dog breeds. I must admit, I always look to see where my dogs rank. My German Shepherd is usually in the top three of whatever list, and my Great Pyrenees is usually somewhere towards to bottom. Ok, that’s a lie; my Great Pyrenees usually isn’t even on the list unless it is a long list (I recently found the Great Pyrenees at number 64, not too shabby!) However, and I hate to admit this, I searched for the world’s dumbest dog breeds to see if his breed was on there…and it was. Apparently, according to this site, the Great Pyrenees is the 16th dumbest dog breed. I don’t think I will share this information with him though! I also get asked on many occasions which dog breeds are hardest to train or which ones I think are the smartest (nobody usually asks me which ones are the dumbest).
But here is the thing, I think these lists are ridiculous and they can influence someone from adopting (or buying I guess) a certain breed because people don’t want a “dumb” dog. One of the lists I looked at gave a dog breed a certain rank by how many repetitions it took to learn a new trick. Well, here’s the thing…how was the trick being trained? What environment was the trick being trained in? And, MOST IMPORTANTLY, what motivation was used to get the dog to do the trick.
This may seem shocking, but not all dogs are motivated by the same thing. Just like people, dogs have preferences. I am often envious when I talk to people and they tell me their dog loves carrots, or string beans, or apples. I can’t get either one of my dogs to eat fruits or veggies! You have to figure out what motivates YOUR dog, not what motivates your friend’s dog, even if they are the same breed. If you want to get your dog to learn a trick faster, and have better recall with that trick, motivate them with something they love. It could be food, but it could also be their favorite toy, or your affection.
Also, whatever motivation (reward) you are using to train your dog, it needs to be more exciting to your dog than what he is doing. For example, my Great Pyrenees loves to walk the perimeter fence. Sometimes when he is in my backyard he paces or walks the perimeter fence; he is guarding his property, which is very intelligent if you ask me. I will call him in, sometimes even with a treat, but he will not come. It is not that he is dumb or that he doesn’t know what I want him to do, it is that what he is doing, guarding me, is way more important to him then a treat. If you ask me, that is awesome and super smart!
As for my German Shepherd, if she even sees me coming to the back door she is at my side in a second (literally!) I don’t need to call her, I don’t need to offer her a motivation or reward…I am her reward, being with me is more important than anything else she is doing.
So it is not about your dog being smart or dumb. It is about knowing what motivates your dog. Figure out what your dog loves and use that to train him. And remember that training does not occur once or twice a week; it isn't an even that occurs, training is continuous! Do this and you will have the smartest dog in the world!
But here is the thing, I think these lists are ridiculous and they can influence someone from adopting (or buying I guess) a certain breed because people don’t want a “dumb” dog. One of the lists I looked at gave a dog breed a certain rank by how many repetitions it took to learn a new trick. Well, here’s the thing…how was the trick being trained? What environment was the trick being trained in? And, MOST IMPORTANTLY, what motivation was used to get the dog to do the trick.
This may seem shocking, but not all dogs are motivated by the same thing. Just like people, dogs have preferences. I am often envious when I talk to people and they tell me their dog loves carrots, or string beans, or apples. I can’t get either one of my dogs to eat fruits or veggies! You have to figure out what motivates YOUR dog, not what motivates your friend’s dog, even if they are the same breed. If you want to get your dog to learn a trick faster, and have better recall with that trick, motivate them with something they love. It could be food, but it could also be their favorite toy, or your affection.
Also, whatever motivation (reward) you are using to train your dog, it needs to be more exciting to your dog than what he is doing. For example, my Great Pyrenees loves to walk the perimeter fence. Sometimes when he is in my backyard he paces or walks the perimeter fence; he is guarding his property, which is very intelligent if you ask me. I will call him in, sometimes even with a treat, but he will not come. It is not that he is dumb or that he doesn’t know what I want him to do, it is that what he is doing, guarding me, is way more important to him then a treat. If you ask me, that is awesome and super smart!
As for my German Shepherd, if she even sees me coming to the back door she is at my side in a second (literally!) I don’t need to call her, I don’t need to offer her a motivation or reward…I am her reward, being with me is more important than anything else she is doing.
So it is not about your dog being smart or dumb. It is about knowing what motivates your dog. Figure out what your dog loves and use that to train him. And remember that training does not occur once or twice a week; it isn't an even that occurs, training is continuous! Do this and you will have the smartest dog in the world!
- Published on
I have never really asked myself this question, I never really had the need to…then we found the tumor. But to be honest, even while going through all of the steps, all of the doctors, all of the treatment, I still never asked myself that question.
As I wrote in the previous post, at the end of November, I had Argus’ lump biopsied. When I got the results, they were inconclusive; the doctors were not sure exactly what it was. The vet then sent us to see an oncologist. Right away the oncologist believed it was a soft tissue sarcoma. Although she said she was not positive, she seemed pretty sure, so I believed her.
She recommended a CT scan, I still never asked myself the question. The vet needed to make sure there were no tumor cells throughout his body. Apparently, this type of tumor likes to spread to the lungs and the lymph nodes. I got the first bit of good news after the CT scan, there were no tumors anywhere else!
The CT scans allowed the surgeon to decide if he would be able to remove it; next piece of good news…he said the tumor was actually in a good position and thought he would be able to remove it all. I still never asked myself the question.
In December he had surgery to remove the tumor; that was a very long day. At around 3:30 pm, the surgeon called and let me know he thought he removed the entire tumor with good margins so it wouldn’t come back! He only had to take a small portion of the abdominal wall too.
So, the results…the tumor ended up being the size of a football and turned out to be a peripheral nerve sheath tumor. This type of tumor springs from the peripheral nervous system; it extends from outside the central nervous system. Bottom line, it was a very large, malignant tumor originating from the nervous system. These types of tumors are mostly found in older dogs (although I don’t really know how old Argus is, he is between 7-9).
There is no known cause for peripheral nerve sheath tumors, but it is possible they develop from a former injury; because Argus is a rescue, I have no knowledge of any possible injury from his earlier days. Most of these tumors come back and the average survival time for dogs with malignant peripheral sheath tumors is two years.
So, his tumor was gone and I knew what type of cancer he had…now what? We had to go back to the oncologist to decide on what next. She recommended a low dose of chemo; since the tumor was so large and the surgeon had to take a lot of skin from Argus’ stomach, if the tumor grew back there would be no way to remove it again. I still didn’t ask the question.
After a long time of healing from the surgery, there were some complications with his staples, he has started the chemo and should only be on it for six months. He is doing amazing; acting like a puppy! His original vet who recently saw him for some blood work said he looks amazing and happy!
Although I have totaled up how much this has cost me so far, I have absolutely no regrets about that number and I would do it all again if I needed to.
When people hear this story they usually comment that they would not have done the same thing, they would not have spent that much money. But I don’t think you can know what you would do until you are put in that situation. I never asked the question because Argus is part of my family and, in my opinion, he deserves every chance possible to live a happy, healthy, life!
My hope is that nobody ever has to ask themselves that question, but chances are that many people will have to. Just know that everyone, every dog, and every situation is different.If you do ask yourself this question, it is ok...no matter what the answer is!
But most of all…pet your pup even if he doesn’t want you to!
As I wrote in the previous post, at the end of November, I had Argus’ lump biopsied. When I got the results, they were inconclusive; the doctors were not sure exactly what it was. The vet then sent us to see an oncologist. Right away the oncologist believed it was a soft tissue sarcoma. Although she said she was not positive, she seemed pretty sure, so I believed her.
She recommended a CT scan, I still never asked myself the question. The vet needed to make sure there were no tumor cells throughout his body. Apparently, this type of tumor likes to spread to the lungs and the lymph nodes. I got the first bit of good news after the CT scan, there were no tumors anywhere else!
The CT scans allowed the surgeon to decide if he would be able to remove it; next piece of good news…he said the tumor was actually in a good position and thought he would be able to remove it all. I still never asked myself the question.
In December he had surgery to remove the tumor; that was a very long day. At around 3:30 pm, the surgeon called and let me know he thought he removed the entire tumor with good margins so it wouldn’t come back! He only had to take a small portion of the abdominal wall too.
So, the results…the tumor ended up being the size of a football and turned out to be a peripheral nerve sheath tumor. This type of tumor springs from the peripheral nervous system; it extends from outside the central nervous system. Bottom line, it was a very large, malignant tumor originating from the nervous system. These types of tumors are mostly found in older dogs (although I don’t really know how old Argus is, he is between 7-9).
There is no known cause for peripheral nerve sheath tumors, but it is possible they develop from a former injury; because Argus is a rescue, I have no knowledge of any possible injury from his earlier days. Most of these tumors come back and the average survival time for dogs with malignant peripheral sheath tumors is two years.
So, his tumor was gone and I knew what type of cancer he had…now what? We had to go back to the oncologist to decide on what next. She recommended a low dose of chemo; since the tumor was so large and the surgeon had to take a lot of skin from Argus’ stomach, if the tumor grew back there would be no way to remove it again. I still didn’t ask the question.
After a long time of healing from the surgery, there were some complications with his staples, he has started the chemo and should only be on it for six months. He is doing amazing; acting like a puppy! His original vet who recently saw him for some blood work said he looks amazing and happy!
Although I have totaled up how much this has cost me so far, I have absolutely no regrets about that number and I would do it all again if I needed to.
When people hear this story they usually comment that they would not have done the same thing, they would not have spent that much money. But I don’t think you can know what you would do until you are put in that situation. I never asked the question because Argus is part of my family and, in my opinion, he deserves every chance possible to live a happy, healthy, life!
My hope is that nobody ever has to ask themselves that question, but chances are that many people will have to. Just know that everyone, every dog, and every situation is different.If you do ask yourself this question, it is ok...no matter what the answer is!
But most of all…pet your pup even if he doesn’t want you to!
- Published on
Many of us have a dog that is our shadow, a dog (no matter the size) who thinks she is a lap dog. I have a 90 pound German Shepherd who sits on my lap, sleeps on my head, and follows be to the bathroom! If I start to pet her she will roll over and expose her tummy so I can give her a belly run. I can pet her head to toe and she loves it, even encourages it! She can be very cuddly and snuggle with me for hours.
On the other hand, I have a Great Pyrenees. He will bully you into petting is head, bump it against your hand no matter what you are doing until you start to pet him. Sometimes, if you pet him long enough, he will actually fall asleep! But he does not sleep with me. In fact, most of the time he doesn’t even come upstairs when I go to bed. He is perfectly happy sleeping downstairs on the hardwood floor where it is undoubtedly cooler. He does not roll over on his back, unless he is outside rolling around on the grass. He does not snuggle; he does not cuddle. He is perfectly happy with head rubs and then going off to be by himself.
My two dogs are completely different; have completely different personalities. One loves to cuddle and be pet, so I do; the other doesn’t love to be pet, so I don’t.
However, I have learned why I should pet my Great Pyrenees regardless of whether he likes it or not; and why I encourage everyone to pet their pup too…at least once a week.
I brought my Great Pyrenees to the vet in August for his yearly checkup and shots; everything looked good. At the end of August, I brought him to the groomers (by the way, if you don’t know what a Great Pyrenees looks like, think polar bear!) In the middle of October, I took him back to the groomers for a bath. When I picked him up they asked me if I felt the lump on his stomach. I didn’t know he had a lump. The groomer showed me where it was, but I couldn’t see it through all of is fur, only feel it. I was appalled at how large it was!
Of course, I then felt extremely guilty I never felt or saw the lump. I know I could not have seen it because of its location and all of his fur, but if I pet him more, I might have felt it. Granted, it grew quickly. In less than two months it grew to be 11 by 12 centimeters!
I had it biopsied last week, and even in the 3 weeks from the first vet appointment, to his biopsy, the lump grew. They had to shave him for the biopsy, so now the lump is in full view…and it looks HUGE! I cannot believe I did not notice it earlier! I should get the results of the biopsy this week, but I am hopeful.
So, the point of this post…pet your pup whether they like it or not! I would recommend petting your pup from head to toe at least once a week. Pet their tummy, pet their legs, pet their backs, pet everything! Lumps can grow anywhere and everywhere. And although a lump does not necessarily mean cancer, it is still important to take notice of anything out of the ordinary.
Hopefully the lump turns out to be nothing but a fatty tomorrow, of course, due to its fast-growing nature, I will still have to get it removed. This will involve another surgery, so more anesthesia. Although I am not sure how old he is since he was a rescue, he is getting up there in age; anesthesia can be dangerous for an older dog.
Maybe I couldn’t have done anything even if I found the lump earlier; maybe it still would have led to a biopsy and a surgery to remove the lump. But, I wouldn’t feel as guilty because I missed a cantaloupe sized lump on my pup’s tummy!
So pet your pups, even if they don’t like it!
On the other hand, I have a Great Pyrenees. He will bully you into petting is head, bump it against your hand no matter what you are doing until you start to pet him. Sometimes, if you pet him long enough, he will actually fall asleep! But he does not sleep with me. In fact, most of the time he doesn’t even come upstairs when I go to bed. He is perfectly happy sleeping downstairs on the hardwood floor where it is undoubtedly cooler. He does not roll over on his back, unless he is outside rolling around on the grass. He does not snuggle; he does not cuddle. He is perfectly happy with head rubs and then going off to be by himself.
My two dogs are completely different; have completely different personalities. One loves to cuddle and be pet, so I do; the other doesn’t love to be pet, so I don’t.
However, I have learned why I should pet my Great Pyrenees regardless of whether he likes it or not; and why I encourage everyone to pet their pup too…at least once a week.
I brought my Great Pyrenees to the vet in August for his yearly checkup and shots; everything looked good. At the end of August, I brought him to the groomers (by the way, if you don’t know what a Great Pyrenees looks like, think polar bear!) In the middle of October, I took him back to the groomers for a bath. When I picked him up they asked me if I felt the lump on his stomach. I didn’t know he had a lump. The groomer showed me where it was, but I couldn’t see it through all of is fur, only feel it. I was appalled at how large it was!
Of course, I then felt extremely guilty I never felt or saw the lump. I know I could not have seen it because of its location and all of his fur, but if I pet him more, I might have felt it. Granted, it grew quickly. In less than two months it grew to be 11 by 12 centimeters!
I had it biopsied last week, and even in the 3 weeks from the first vet appointment, to his biopsy, the lump grew. They had to shave him for the biopsy, so now the lump is in full view…and it looks HUGE! I cannot believe I did not notice it earlier! I should get the results of the biopsy this week, but I am hopeful.
So, the point of this post…pet your pup whether they like it or not! I would recommend petting your pup from head to toe at least once a week. Pet their tummy, pet their legs, pet their backs, pet everything! Lumps can grow anywhere and everywhere. And although a lump does not necessarily mean cancer, it is still important to take notice of anything out of the ordinary.
Hopefully the lump turns out to be nothing but a fatty tomorrow, of course, due to its fast-growing nature, I will still have to get it removed. This will involve another surgery, so more anesthesia. Although I am not sure how old he is since he was a rescue, he is getting up there in age; anesthesia can be dangerous for an older dog.
Maybe I couldn’t have done anything even if I found the lump earlier; maybe it still would have led to a biopsy and a surgery to remove the lump. But, I wouldn’t feel as guilty because I missed a cantaloupe sized lump on my pup’s tummy!
So pet your pups, even if they don’t like it!
- Published on
When deciding to hopefully adopt a dog, it is important to research the breed (or breeds if the pup you want is a mixed breed) to ensure its personality will match your personality; its energy level matches your energy level; and its space needs matches the space you have. You don’t want to adopt a Greyhound if you are a couch potato and you don’t want to adopt a bulldog if you are a runner; and you don’t want to adopt a Border Collie if you have nowhere for the pup to run!
One of the things you can count on is that no dog is alike. Even throughout the same breed, each dog will be different. Sure, each breed has a temperament associated with it, but there is no guarantee. For instance, according to the American Kennel Club (AKC), the Great Pyrenees, is “calm, patient, smart, strong-willed yet affectionate” (http://www.akc.org/dog-breeds/great-pyrenees/). However, there are many factors that will shape your dog’s actual personality.
I rescued a Great Pyrenees from the Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (SPCA) in 2012. When I first met him (I volunteered there) he was very calm, patient, and affectionate. Then I brought him home and everything changed! He is still loving, but he has territorial, food, and stranger aggression…so not so calm!
On the other hand, I also have a German Shepherd (GSD). The AKC states that German Shepherds are “smart, confident, courageous, and steady; a true dog lover’s dog” (http://www.akc.org/dog-breeds/german-shepherd-dog/). My GSD is ridiculously smart, smarter than me and too smart for her own good! She will jump over whatever I ask her to; go through dark, small tunnels if that is what I want; and run over a teeter-tot in agility without even blinking an eye. She is amazing. However, she has dog aggression due to fear.
Having said all of that, when you get a dog from breeder, adopt a dog from a shelter, or rescue a dog from somewhere else, it is impossible to predict exactly how your dog is going to act, even given breed temperaments. There are many things that can affect a dog’s personality, even one from a breeder. So do your research, make a smart decision, but understand your new family member might not act exactly how you expected. I love both of my dogs unconditionally, even though they drive me crazy at times, as I am sure yours do! Although it is difficult to remember they are most likely acting out because they are stressed, (I promise you they are not being jerks on purpose) it is hard to remember that in the moment. But try to keep calm, don’t yell at them as that will just stress them out more, and try to take them out of the stressful situation.
From my Great Pyrenees, when he goes crazy barking at a stranger from the window, I simply grab his collar (I know he will not attack me) and gently pull him away from the window. I do not yell at him, but I remain calmly holding his collar until he is no longer stressing. If I am walking my GSD I ensure I change the side of the street I am walking on if we see another dog. However, with my GSD, I have been able to actually take walks with other dogs. But it was, and still is, a slow process. If she begins to stress, I simply walk her away from the other dog.
Be patient and work with your dog; help your dog deal with whatever stress they may have. It may take a while, but it will be worth it!
One of the things you can count on is that no dog is alike. Even throughout the same breed, each dog will be different. Sure, each breed has a temperament associated with it, but there is no guarantee. For instance, according to the American Kennel Club (AKC), the Great Pyrenees, is “calm, patient, smart, strong-willed yet affectionate” (http://www.akc.org/dog-breeds/great-pyrenees/). However, there are many factors that will shape your dog’s actual personality.
I rescued a Great Pyrenees from the Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (SPCA) in 2012. When I first met him (I volunteered there) he was very calm, patient, and affectionate. Then I brought him home and everything changed! He is still loving, but he has territorial, food, and stranger aggression…so not so calm!
On the other hand, I also have a German Shepherd (GSD). The AKC states that German Shepherds are “smart, confident, courageous, and steady; a true dog lover’s dog” (http://www.akc.org/dog-breeds/german-shepherd-dog/). My GSD is ridiculously smart, smarter than me and too smart for her own good! She will jump over whatever I ask her to; go through dark, small tunnels if that is what I want; and run over a teeter-tot in agility without even blinking an eye. She is amazing. However, she has dog aggression due to fear.
Having said all of that, when you get a dog from breeder, adopt a dog from a shelter, or rescue a dog from somewhere else, it is impossible to predict exactly how your dog is going to act, even given breed temperaments. There are many things that can affect a dog’s personality, even one from a breeder. So do your research, make a smart decision, but understand your new family member might not act exactly how you expected. I love both of my dogs unconditionally, even though they drive me crazy at times, as I am sure yours do! Although it is difficult to remember they are most likely acting out because they are stressed, (I promise you they are not being jerks on purpose) it is hard to remember that in the moment. But try to keep calm, don’t yell at them as that will just stress them out more, and try to take them out of the stressful situation.
From my Great Pyrenees, when he goes crazy barking at a stranger from the window, I simply grab his collar (I know he will not attack me) and gently pull him away from the window. I do not yell at him, but I remain calmly holding his collar until he is no longer stressing. If I am walking my GSD I ensure I change the side of the street I am walking on if we see another dog. However, with my GSD, I have been able to actually take walks with other dogs. But it was, and still is, a slow process. If she begins to stress, I simply walk her away from the other dog.
Be patient and work with your dog; help your dog deal with whatever stress they may have. It may take a while, but it will be worth it!
- Published on
I am frequently approached by people who feel guilty or upset or like they are bad dog parents because their dog doesn’t behave like “they should” or like “other dogs do.” They see other dogs walking or watch tv shows about dogs or with dogs in them. They begin to compare their dogs and realize their dog isn’t perfect.
Well, I am just going to put this out there now, there is no such thing as a perfect dog and there are no set rules as to how YOUR dog should act. Every dog is different and every person is different. This means that every person is going to act different and every dog is going to act different. You cannot, and should not, compare your dog with other dogs.
First, I do think every dog needs to know a couple of things for safety reasons. I believe every dog should have a reliable recall, meaning, every time you call your dog to come to you, she should come to you, no matter what distractions are present. Why is this important? Sure, it is just plain nice to have your dog listen to you, but the really important reason for a reliable recall is in case your dog runs in the street and a car is coming; you want to make sure she will come to you and out of the street. Or if there is a dangerous animal in the area and you need to get your dog away from it. There are numerous situations in which a reliable recall is important to protect your dog.
Another command I think every dog should know is “leave it.” To me, the reason this command is so important is to protect your dog from eating something dangerous, say, bones that are on the street. Bones could choke your dog or cause damage to her digestive tract. There are other great reasons for “leave it,” you probably don’t want your dog eating your food you left unattended on the table or the slug that is crawling on your back steps. “Leave it” will help you keep your dog safe from dangerous on a walk as well as dangerous in the house.
“Stay” is another important command, again for safety reasons. This command will help prevent your dog from running out the door, or running down the street. “Stay” can also be useful if your dog jumps on people when they enter the house. You can put your dog in a “stay” while your visitors enter the house.
Another command that could be used to keep your dogs from jumping on or bothering guests is “place” or “mat” or “bed” or some other command that lets your dog know they need to go to their designated place and stay there until they are released.
There are also many “nice to know” command such as “sit.” This command usually is taught before “stay.” Many people find it easier to have their dog “stay” if the dog is sitting; which is probably true! “Down” is also a good command to teach your dog in conjunction with stay.
With many of these commands, such as “stay,” “sit,” “down,” and “place,” you should also come up with a release word. This word gives your dog permission to break the command. If you tell your dog to “stay,” how is she supposed to know when she can stop “staying?” You do not want her to make her own decision, you want to let her know. I use the word “free,” but it doesn’t matter what you use, just make sure you let her know!
Let’s talk a little about walking your dog. Having your dog heel right by your side while you walk is excellent. This can make for a wonderful walk. However, when I walk I allow my dog to be in front of me (as long as she is not pulling). She likes to be in front and she LOVES to smell everything. Dogs have excellent noses and get to know their environment by smelling, so I let my dog do this. When I walk my dog it is for her benefit, not mine, so I want her to enjoy it as much as possible. But, she knows that she is not allowed to pull and she knows the second I call her back to me she needs to come to my side. This is important for the safety of your dog, especially if you are walking on a trail with other dogs and other people.
One command I taught my dog was “look.” When I give this command to my dog she has to look at me. For me and my dog this is an important command. My dog sometimes has fear aggression towards other dogs. If, when we are walking, we see another dog, I have her “look” until we pass the dog. This allows us to pass calmly.
In my opinion, other than a recall, stay, and leave it, all other commands depend on your dog and yourself. Do not feel guilty or upset if your dog doesn’t walk perfectly on a leash or if you can’t put your dog in a down-stay and walk around her without her getting up! Decide what you would like to do with your dog and what commands are important to you and focus on that!
Well, I am just going to put this out there now, there is no such thing as a perfect dog and there are no set rules as to how YOUR dog should act. Every dog is different and every person is different. This means that every person is going to act different and every dog is going to act different. You cannot, and should not, compare your dog with other dogs.
First, I do think every dog needs to know a couple of things for safety reasons. I believe every dog should have a reliable recall, meaning, every time you call your dog to come to you, she should come to you, no matter what distractions are present. Why is this important? Sure, it is just plain nice to have your dog listen to you, but the really important reason for a reliable recall is in case your dog runs in the street and a car is coming; you want to make sure she will come to you and out of the street. Or if there is a dangerous animal in the area and you need to get your dog away from it. There are numerous situations in which a reliable recall is important to protect your dog.
Another command I think every dog should know is “leave it.” To me, the reason this command is so important is to protect your dog from eating something dangerous, say, bones that are on the street. Bones could choke your dog or cause damage to her digestive tract. There are other great reasons for “leave it,” you probably don’t want your dog eating your food you left unattended on the table or the slug that is crawling on your back steps. “Leave it” will help you keep your dog safe from dangerous on a walk as well as dangerous in the house.
“Stay” is another important command, again for safety reasons. This command will help prevent your dog from running out the door, or running down the street. “Stay” can also be useful if your dog jumps on people when they enter the house. You can put your dog in a “stay” while your visitors enter the house.
Another command that could be used to keep your dogs from jumping on or bothering guests is “place” or “mat” or “bed” or some other command that lets your dog know they need to go to their designated place and stay there until they are released.
There are also many “nice to know” command such as “sit.” This command usually is taught before “stay.” Many people find it easier to have their dog “stay” if the dog is sitting; which is probably true! “Down” is also a good command to teach your dog in conjunction with stay.
With many of these commands, such as “stay,” “sit,” “down,” and “place,” you should also come up with a release word. This word gives your dog permission to break the command. If you tell your dog to “stay,” how is she supposed to know when she can stop “staying?” You do not want her to make her own decision, you want to let her know. I use the word “free,” but it doesn’t matter what you use, just make sure you let her know!
Let’s talk a little about walking your dog. Having your dog heel right by your side while you walk is excellent. This can make for a wonderful walk. However, when I walk I allow my dog to be in front of me (as long as she is not pulling). She likes to be in front and she LOVES to smell everything. Dogs have excellent noses and get to know their environment by smelling, so I let my dog do this. When I walk my dog it is for her benefit, not mine, so I want her to enjoy it as much as possible. But, she knows that she is not allowed to pull and she knows the second I call her back to me she needs to come to my side. This is important for the safety of your dog, especially if you are walking on a trail with other dogs and other people.
One command I taught my dog was “look.” When I give this command to my dog she has to look at me. For me and my dog this is an important command. My dog sometimes has fear aggression towards other dogs. If, when we are walking, we see another dog, I have her “look” until we pass the dog. This allows us to pass calmly.
In my opinion, other than a recall, stay, and leave it, all other commands depend on your dog and yourself. Do not feel guilty or upset if your dog doesn’t walk perfectly on a leash or if you can’t put your dog in a down-stay and walk around her without her getting up! Decide what you would like to do with your dog and what commands are important to you and focus on that!
- Published on
I rescued a German Shepherd back in 2009. He was an adult, around 9, and a former show dog. He was a great dog and made the perfect brother for my 9-year-old Golden Retriever. One of the things I love to do is go hiking with my dogs. So one day I took my Shepherd on a hike…that is when I found out he HATED walking on dirt! He would refuse to budge, and if I did get him moving he would seize every opportunity to try and turn back and get off the dirt.
I thought this was a bit odd, but when I thought a little more about it, I could see why he would hate the dirt. He was a former show dog after all and he probably did not spend much time playing in the yard, rolling in the mud, or walking in the dirt. This led me to think about puppies and socialization.
I have written about socializing puppies to people and other dogs, but it is also important to socialize your puppy to different surfaces under their paws! If your puppy only walks on a carpet or hardwood floor, and is carried whenever he is outside and only put down on the grass do to his business, he will not know what dirt is! I can understand not wanting your puppy to tromp through the dirt and mud, but you should let him at least feel it so he won’t be scared of dirt!
It is also important to allow your puppy to walk on a wooden bridge, or over a metal grate. Even over wood chips and pine straw. The more diverse surfaces under his paws the better. Although you may not think you would ever have to have your puppy to walk over a metal surface, think about the metal table at the vet’s office.
It is hard to imagine a puppy not liking to walk on grass, but what if the grass was wet or had frost on it? If you don’t expose your puppy to water when they are young, they may refuse to potty on wet grass. Let them walk through puddles and sprinklers, buy them a kiddie pool and fill it up with a little water!
So what is the best way to make your puppy’s experience positive while learning to walk on different surfaces? Yup…TREATS and lots of them! You want to associate the different surfaces with something positive. Find out what your puppy’s favorite treat is, maybe some cheese or chicken. Lure your puppy on to the new surface if they are feeling nervous with the treat, but do not force them on the surface, this will likely cause them to be more afraid. You might not get them on the surface the first time, just try to be positive and try to lure them close each time. Again, it will be counterproductive if you force your puppy on to the surface.
Try and think of as many different surfaces as you can because you never know what you will encounter on a walk. Socialization should be a positive experience for you and your puppy. It may take lots of treats and lots of patience on your part, but don’t fore you puppy and don’t give up!
While you are out walking your puppy on the different surfaces you will also be socializing your puppy to different sounds. Many puppies, and dogs, are afraid of loud noises like thunder and fireworks. Although humans may jump when we hear a loud noise, we can identify where the noise came from and know there is nothing to worry about. Puppies, however, cannot identify where these noises come from, they just hear a loud noise and see nothing to associate the noise with. Because of this, loud noises can be very scary.
Socializing your puppy to these noises at a young age can help alleviate the fear when they grow up. Start by getting a recording of a thunderstorm or fireworks. Play the recording at a low level while playing with your puppy or treating your puppy. Once your puppy has become accustomed to the noise, turn it up a little louder. Continue to do this until the recording is pretty loud. However, make sure watch your puppy for any signs of distress, as with all other socialization, this should be a positive experience. You can do this technique with any noise you can think of including trucks, motorcycles, horns, traffic, etc. Start at a low-level and build up to a louder level while treating, playing, and praising!
A little patience with your puppy will make for a better relationship between you and your dog!
Next week I will be discussing what your dog needs to know, what is nice to know, and what you want them to know!
I thought this was a bit odd, but when I thought a little more about it, I could see why he would hate the dirt. He was a former show dog after all and he probably did not spend much time playing in the yard, rolling in the mud, or walking in the dirt. This led me to think about puppies and socialization.
I have written about socializing puppies to people and other dogs, but it is also important to socialize your puppy to different surfaces under their paws! If your puppy only walks on a carpet or hardwood floor, and is carried whenever he is outside and only put down on the grass do to his business, he will not know what dirt is! I can understand not wanting your puppy to tromp through the dirt and mud, but you should let him at least feel it so he won’t be scared of dirt!
It is also important to allow your puppy to walk on a wooden bridge, or over a metal grate. Even over wood chips and pine straw. The more diverse surfaces under his paws the better. Although you may not think you would ever have to have your puppy to walk over a metal surface, think about the metal table at the vet’s office.
It is hard to imagine a puppy not liking to walk on grass, but what if the grass was wet or had frost on it? If you don’t expose your puppy to water when they are young, they may refuse to potty on wet grass. Let them walk through puddles and sprinklers, buy them a kiddie pool and fill it up with a little water!
So what is the best way to make your puppy’s experience positive while learning to walk on different surfaces? Yup…TREATS and lots of them! You want to associate the different surfaces with something positive. Find out what your puppy’s favorite treat is, maybe some cheese or chicken. Lure your puppy on to the new surface if they are feeling nervous with the treat, but do not force them on the surface, this will likely cause them to be more afraid. You might not get them on the surface the first time, just try to be positive and try to lure them close each time. Again, it will be counterproductive if you force your puppy on to the surface.
Try and think of as many different surfaces as you can because you never know what you will encounter on a walk. Socialization should be a positive experience for you and your puppy. It may take lots of treats and lots of patience on your part, but don’t fore you puppy and don’t give up!
While you are out walking your puppy on the different surfaces you will also be socializing your puppy to different sounds. Many puppies, and dogs, are afraid of loud noises like thunder and fireworks. Although humans may jump when we hear a loud noise, we can identify where the noise came from and know there is nothing to worry about. Puppies, however, cannot identify where these noises come from, they just hear a loud noise and see nothing to associate the noise with. Because of this, loud noises can be very scary.
Socializing your puppy to these noises at a young age can help alleviate the fear when they grow up. Start by getting a recording of a thunderstorm or fireworks. Play the recording at a low level while playing with your puppy or treating your puppy. Once your puppy has become accustomed to the noise, turn it up a little louder. Continue to do this until the recording is pretty loud. However, make sure watch your puppy for any signs of distress, as with all other socialization, this should be a positive experience. You can do this technique with any noise you can think of including trucks, motorcycles, horns, traffic, etc. Start at a low-level and build up to a louder level while treating, playing, and praising!
A little patience with your puppy will make for a better relationship between you and your dog!
Next week I will be discussing what your dog needs to know, what is nice to know, and what you want them to know!
- Published on
Puppy Socialization - Part 2
Most people know that you need to socialize puppy with other dogs. Puppies go through a socialization period which usually begins at around 3 weeks of age. During the socialization period, a puppy’s eyes fully open and they have complete visual capacity. Their ears also open during this period. Because they are now able to hear and see, they begin to venture away from their mother and explore. They also begin to form social relations, usually with their litter mates. If a puppy is taken away from his litter mates too soon, they may not develop appropriate social skills.
During the socialization period, puppies begin to play with their litter mates; the skills learned from this play are essential for proper socialization skills when the puppies get older. They learn how to communicate with each other, how to interpret signals, and how to offer signals. This signals are used to help control aggression in adult dogs. Eventually the puppy will be taken away from his mom and his litter. It is important not to stop the socialization at this point.
You must continually socialize your puppy with other dogs, and other animals, even as they are becoming adults. However, it is important to do this properly. You do not want to reverse the benefits achieved from early socialization. Many people will bring their young pup to a dog park to socialization him. This could have some negative effects. If you have ever been to a dog park, you know that there is usually a greeting party consisting of many of the dogs already enjoying the dog park. This can be overwhelming for a young puppy. Even if he was properly socialized with his litter mates, it was unlikely he was every exposed to this type of greeting party! This may cause a puppy to be fearful of dogs.
If you really want to go to the dog park, I recommend finding a time when the dog park is almost empty (preferably completely empty so you can first introduce your puppy to the dog park). Do not bring your puppy in on a leash. A leash will prevent your puppy from fleeing if it is frightened. Puppies also have the “fight or flight” response; if they can’t flee, they will fight. You do not want to teach that.
A better way to socialize your puppy to other dogs is to set up a play date with another dog you know to be calm and socialized. Let them go up to each other and sniff each other, that is how they greet each other. Let them sniff, let them play, let them roll around, but watch for any signs of distress.
Another way to continue socialization is by simply taking walks with your puppy. If you are just beginning socialization walk by another dog and watch your puppy to see how he reacts. If there is no distress, and the other dog is friendly, again, let them say hi and sniff each other.
You do not want to force interaction between your puppy and another puppy or dog. Socialization should be enjoyable, the minute it becomes less than enjoyable, it is no longer socialization, it becomes a forced interaction. This can lead to fear and aggression.
Continued socialization is essential, even when a puppy becomes a dog!
Next week I will discuss socializing your puppy to different sounds, surfaces, and smells!
During the socialization period, puppies begin to play with their litter mates; the skills learned from this play are essential for proper socialization skills when the puppies get older. They learn how to communicate with each other, how to interpret signals, and how to offer signals. This signals are used to help control aggression in adult dogs. Eventually the puppy will be taken away from his mom and his litter. It is important not to stop the socialization at this point.
You must continually socialize your puppy with other dogs, and other animals, even as they are becoming adults. However, it is important to do this properly. You do not want to reverse the benefits achieved from early socialization. Many people will bring their young pup to a dog park to socialization him. This could have some negative effects. If you have ever been to a dog park, you know that there is usually a greeting party consisting of many of the dogs already enjoying the dog park. This can be overwhelming for a young puppy. Even if he was properly socialized with his litter mates, it was unlikely he was every exposed to this type of greeting party! This may cause a puppy to be fearful of dogs.
If you really want to go to the dog park, I recommend finding a time when the dog park is almost empty (preferably completely empty so you can first introduce your puppy to the dog park). Do not bring your puppy in on a leash. A leash will prevent your puppy from fleeing if it is frightened. Puppies also have the “fight or flight” response; if they can’t flee, they will fight. You do not want to teach that.
A better way to socialize your puppy to other dogs is to set up a play date with another dog you know to be calm and socialized. Let them go up to each other and sniff each other, that is how they greet each other. Let them sniff, let them play, let them roll around, but watch for any signs of distress.
Another way to continue socialization is by simply taking walks with your puppy. If you are just beginning socialization walk by another dog and watch your puppy to see how he reacts. If there is no distress, and the other dog is friendly, again, let them say hi and sniff each other.
You do not want to force interaction between your puppy and another puppy or dog. Socialization should be enjoyable, the minute it becomes less than enjoyable, it is no longer socialization, it becomes a forced interaction. This can lead to fear and aggression.
Continued socialization is essential, even when a puppy becomes a dog!
Next week I will discuss socializing your puppy to different sounds, surfaces, and smells!
- Published on
What does it mean to socialize your puppy? It probably means different things to different people. Some may think socialization means introducing your puppy to other dogs; some may think it means socialization means introducing your puppy to other people; and other may think it means introducing your puppy to other animals. All of this is correct, but socialization means so much more.
Socializing your puppy to other humans and other dogs is very important and should begin as soon as possible. Depending on who you ask you will get a different time frame as to when you should socialize your puppy. But generally socialization should occur between 3 and 20 weeks.
But what does it mean to socialize your puppy to other humans? It isn’t just walking by different people; different genders; different races; or letting different people come up to and pet your puppy. Yes, you need to do this, but you also need to make sure those people are wearing ball caps, or cowboy hats; that they have beards or are bald; they are wearing dresses or shorts.
Dogs have what we call hypersensitivity. This means that dogs are able to see more detail than people do; people tend to see in whole pictures, dogs see parts. So when a person sees another person, no matter if they are wearing a hat, beard, or cowboy boots, they still know and identify the image as a person. A dog; however, sees every part. A dog sees a weird looking think on a person’s head (a hat); they see s shiny object at the top of a person (a bald head); or an unidentifiable furry object on a person’s face (beard). Dogs cannot generalize these items as being part of a person. Because of this, they can be scary to dogs.
Therefore, it is not only important to introduce your puppy to as many different people as possible, but also different features that a person might have, including different types of clothing and accessories. Your puppy may be used to, and love, your Uncle Bob. However, one day Uncle Bob comes over and your puppy seems terrified of him and you just can’t figure it out. Well it was really cold that day and Uncle Bob walked in wearing a winter hat and scarf, something your puppy was never introduced too; she could not figure out what was attacking Uncle Bob’s head and neck!
Socializing your puppy to as many different people as possible, in as many different situations as possible, and wearing as many different accessories as possible, will lessen the chance your puppy will be fearful as she grows up.
You need to introduce her slowly, at a pace she is comfortable with. You need to watch your puppy for any signs of distress. Socialization should always be a great experience for your puppy, she needs to enjoy it or it will backfire. For instance, before Uncle Bob comes in wearing the hat and scarf, let your puppy see and smell them; let her sniff them until she is no longer interested. Then have Uncle Bob come in wearing them, maybe one at a time if you think she might be frightened.
Next week I will discuss socializing your puppy to other dogs.
Socializing your puppy to other humans and other dogs is very important and should begin as soon as possible. Depending on who you ask you will get a different time frame as to when you should socialize your puppy. But generally socialization should occur between 3 and 20 weeks.
But what does it mean to socialize your puppy to other humans? It isn’t just walking by different people; different genders; different races; or letting different people come up to and pet your puppy. Yes, you need to do this, but you also need to make sure those people are wearing ball caps, or cowboy hats; that they have beards or are bald; they are wearing dresses or shorts.
Dogs have what we call hypersensitivity. This means that dogs are able to see more detail than people do; people tend to see in whole pictures, dogs see parts. So when a person sees another person, no matter if they are wearing a hat, beard, or cowboy boots, they still know and identify the image as a person. A dog; however, sees every part. A dog sees a weird looking think on a person’s head (a hat); they see s shiny object at the top of a person (a bald head); or an unidentifiable furry object on a person’s face (beard). Dogs cannot generalize these items as being part of a person. Because of this, they can be scary to dogs.
Therefore, it is not only important to introduce your puppy to as many different people as possible, but also different features that a person might have, including different types of clothing and accessories. Your puppy may be used to, and love, your Uncle Bob. However, one day Uncle Bob comes over and your puppy seems terrified of him and you just can’t figure it out. Well it was really cold that day and Uncle Bob walked in wearing a winter hat and scarf, something your puppy was never introduced too; she could not figure out what was attacking Uncle Bob’s head and neck!
Socializing your puppy to as many different people as possible, in as many different situations as possible, and wearing as many different accessories as possible, will lessen the chance your puppy will be fearful as she grows up.
You need to introduce her slowly, at a pace she is comfortable with. You need to watch your puppy for any signs of distress. Socialization should always be a great experience for your puppy, she needs to enjoy it or it will backfire. For instance, before Uncle Bob comes in wearing the hat and scarf, let your puppy see and smell them; let her sniff them until she is no longer interested. Then have Uncle Bob come in wearing them, maybe one at a time if you think she might be frightened.
Next week I will discuss socializing your puppy to other dogs.